Journey into the Frozen Wilds - Ice Climbing and Aurora Hunting in Finnish Lapland

Journey into the Frozen Wilds - Ice Climbing and Aurora Hunting in Finnish Lapland

Blanketed in deep snow, the rugged Arctic wilderness of Finnish Lapland is a land lost in time. Primeval forests untouched for centuries harbor elusive wildlife as the perpetual night skies shine with dazzling displays of the northern lights. This frozen frontier beckons adventure, promising childhood dreams transformed into reality.

My thirst for exploration brought me north to the clutches of winter. A daring expedition awaited, forged in ice and bathed in midnight sunsets. Accompanied by expert guides, our small band of wanderers departed the safety of Rovaniemi behind, venturing forth into little-known valleys hidden within Pyhä-Luosto National Park. Sheltered among these glacial galleries are frozen waterfalls of epic proportions - frigid behemoths defying gravity as crystalline pillars reach skyward. The siren song of vertical ice called out an invitation too tempting to resist.

This is the tale of our journey into the frozen wilds, where we discovered arresting winter vistas, befriended curious avian inhabitants, resurrected myths recounting the ancient origins of the aurora borealis, and challenged ourselves on sheer curtains of climbable ice - all while chasing elusive nightly apparitions dancing amongst the stars.

Gateway to the Arctic Wilderness

Our adventure commenced with departure aboard the SkiBus bound for Pyhä-Luosto National Park from Rovaniemi station. Passing out of the city limits, evidence of civilization soon fell away. Endless snow-blanketed forests dominated the landscape, broken only by the occasional refuge or logging road. These towering 200-year-old pines stood as silent sentinels, guarding the endless Arctic wilderness expanse beyond.

I had arrived in Lapland 48 hours earlier, greeted by a luminescent full moon Lantern Festival and vibrant bustling city lights animating the streets. My spirit of exploration already ignited, I wandered lanes illumined by flickering torches, the spiced gluhwein and hint of wood smoke conjuring images of distant bonfires surrounded by snow-laden firs. The northland felt alive with energy and ancient magic.

Now hours into the forest, no signs remained of cheerful city streets. Our bus navigated roads rarely trodden by outsiders, delving deeper into Finland’s boreal hinterlands. We were venturing into the true twilight zone of the high latitudes - the land of the midnight sun and polar night.

Soon we departed the security of roads altogether, following a secluded trail to Korouoma Canyon within the Pyhä-Luosto National Park limits. Snow laden passages emerged onto an overlook with views extending to the far horizon. Undulating ridges carpeted in evergreens rolled endlessly northward towards the Arctic Ocean waters. Pristine mountain valleys harbor secrets unseen by modern crowds. Only the Sami tribes, Norway’s indigenous people, regularly wander these lands with reindeer in tow. We were getting our first glimpse into the last untouched frontier of Europe.

Myth and Magic in the Midnight Forest

Arriving at park headquarters, we quickly got outfitted with provisions before setting out on a night hike across frozen Pyhäjärvi Lake. This trip was as much about escaping into raw nature as viewing the Aurora Borealis display. Our guides aimed to maximize both aspects.

We departed in late afternoon as the low sun hovered above the pines fringing the lake. Filtered emerald light illuminated rugged valleys converging towards the water. Progressing clockwise around the perimeter, we followed trails rarely used in winter. Footing became tricky across sections of wind-sculpted snowdrifts obscuring obstacles underneath.

Reaching the halfway point just before nightfall, our guides directed us away from the main paths onto a slender track disappearing into untouched old-growth forests. Here towering conifers blotted out the fading twilight, evoking images of mythical creatures lurking just out of sight.

We pushed forward through the tight glade until abruptly debouching onto the open lake just as the sun slipped below the horizon. Stepping onto that perfect sheet of ice under twilight’s eerie glow felt like wandering into a fairy realm. Details receded into the deep blue hues of early nightfall. The mood turned surreal as we moved in isolation through this dreamlike scene devoid of all reference points.

Our veteran guides next unveiled a surprise hidden camp set back within a copse of firs just off shore. Flickering firelight revealed an inviting setting complete with cozy seating and a steaming samovar dispensing hot chocolate. Settling around the radiant warmth with mugs in hand, our local hosts next related a series of tales focused on Finnish myths and legends explaining the origin of the northern lights.

Spellbound, we listened in rapt attention as our storytellers brought to life fables of magic and whimsy from Lapland mythology. Characters included shamanistic figures like powerful noita women traversing the spirit realm and Väinämöinen, the central hero and magician in the Finnish national epic Kalevala.

My favorite legend told of a fantastic firefox capable of running across the winter landscape so swiftly that sparks flying off its tail ignited the night sky, creating what we now call the aurora. Other myths described reindeer spirits racing through the heavens, complaints from a drunken goddess, or the souls of seal pups ascending to the firmament.

In the stillness after finishing their recitation, someone pointed out faint undulations slowly taking form high amongst the stars. Shimmering curtains of green light glowed brighter, beginning a luminous dance across the heavens that would continue till dawn. We had received our first sighting of Lapland’s magical northern lights display. Bedazzled by the experience, I glanced around at similarly entranced faces glowing softly in the emerald lights. Clearly this magical performance in conjunction with the mythological tales had made quite an impression on our merry band of wanderers.

Someone eventually remembered seeing headlamps approaching from the opposite side of the lake. Our sister group was returning from their own parallel adventure. It was time to retrace our route back to the lodge. We bid the flickering Aurora display a reluctant farewell, hoping for more sightings after tonight.

Encountering the Avian Residents

Dawn broke late here in northeastern Finland at this time of year. Dense cloud cover added to the gloom, making sunrise seem anything but imminent. Never ones to waste precious daylight during short winter days in the Arctic, our guides roused everyone shortly after seven for a brisk morning outing. Hot coffee worked to bring us fully alert as we suited up for a round of snowshoeing. Today’s destination was the old-growth valley of Luosto Forest - home to Pyhä-Luosto’s most famous residents outside of Santa Claus - cheeky bands of Siberian jays who regularly thrill visitors.

Venturing into the frosted woods as faint rays of light permeated the overcast skies, our troop anticipated spotting these gregarious birds whose arrival often closely mirrors that of humans entering their winter domain. Their affinity for people stems from an innate knowledge that we represent easy access to food in lean times.

The jays' lively antics commenced within ten minutes of entering the silent forest. Flashing electric blue wings first gave away their arrival as a vanguard swooped down to investigate the potential for handouts. Soon we were surrounded by dozens of these nimble acrobats performing tricks in close proximity to get our attention. Confident by nature, many would land on arms or heads if we remained stationary. The photogenic birds featured prominently on feeds posted online that night.

By week’s end nearly everyone had befriended a particular jay who they could identify by unique markings or behaviors. This personality and willingness to closely interact with people helps explain why the Siberian jay earned the distinctive honor of gracing Pyhä-Luosto National Park’s logo. They remain one of Lapland’s signature wildlife species seen by visitors in winter.

We savored a picnic lunch in the magical bird forest before returning to headquarters. Vowing to lure our newfound friends back with treats, plans were discussed to best capture images of these charismatic winter residents. The stage was being set for a potential sighting of the elusive northern lights later that night. Our guides promised to notify the group if solar activity and cloud conditions aligned to make an appearance likely. With months spent in near total darkness, Pyhä-Luosto gets more than its share of vibrant Aurora Borealis displays - even if witnessed only on occasion by lucky observers.

Confronting the Frozen Waterfalls

After a hearty restaurant meal capped by a round of schnapps courtesy of our guide staff, we rallied with climbing gear in hand for the short hike up to Tajukangas Ice Fall - the most accessible and straightforward of the multiple frozen cataracts available to ascend. Arriving just before night fell, the soaring sheet of cobalt blue ice seemed to emit an otherworldly glow under "Lapland twilight's last gleaming." This radiant vision hovering against a backdrop of snowy evergreens helped explain the magnetic appeal that climbing ice holds for so many each winter.

The guides had already fashioned three lines in the 35-foot tall ice cascade using rope, ice screws and quickdraws. These "fixed climbing routes" of varying difficulty provided options accessible even for complete beginners while still offering sufficient challenge for more seasoned alpinists. After harnessing up and having our tools checked by the staff, each climber tied into the bottom of an assigned line before heading up individually under the watchful eyes of spotters above.

Final stretches exiting the top onto the ledge proved most troublesome for some. We quickly learned that wildly swinging axes over your head whilst balancing on frontpoints made for awkward moves when fatigued. More than a few of us flopped onto the belay ledge in an inelegant fashion once surmounting the final lip.

No matter to our compatriots, who welcomed us with hearty congratulations ...and offers of spiced berry juice followed by pulled pork sandwiches from the grill. This impromptu "feast fit for Finnish lumberjacks" restored vitality for the hike back down to headquarters just ahead of gathering darkness.

Stumbling stiffly through deep drifts of powder snow along the forest track, more than a few climbers wondered aloud how our guides managed these long days out in the elements. Little did we know that the next sunrise would see us chasing even more demanding overhanging columns of ice across an isolated gorge farther north!

Pushing Personal Limits

A luxuriously late departure time gave us a chance to rest weary muscles after yesterday’s escapades. Fortified by sausages, oatmeal and several rounds of coffee, we loaded into two Toyota Land Cruisers to begin the 1 1⁄2 hour journey towards the fabled ice walls of Korouoma. Snowy landscapes rushed past our frosty windows, evoking Narnia-like scenes of magical frozen realms. Rocky bluffs and towering evergreens alternated with barren hills and frozen lakes. We caught tantalizing glimpses of what this roadless wilderness would resemble in summer when endless midnight sun gilds the landscape till August.

Arriving at the secluded Korouoma parking area, our attention was immediately captured by a soaring gorge sliced deep into the rugged terrain. Within its 200-foot walls, colossal dagger-like icicles and frozen waterfalls dominated the scene. Amongst the most spectacular was a leaning spire lofting skyward dubbed the "Mammoth Fall." First climbed in the 1990s, subsequent generations of bold alpinists have kept its ascent on the shortlist of Finland’s most iconic winter climbs.

Gearing up at the base of Korouoma Canyon with ropes, screws and harnesses took time given the extreme cold. Once sorted, our guides established the route by leading up in two teams simultaneously. We were left slack-jawed witnessing their graceful mastery employing ice axes and crampons whilst suspended from tenuous toeholds. Understanding took hold why clients invest complete faith in these seasoned professionals.

With fixed lines established, our team now waited for a green light signaling it was our turn to head upwards. Adrenaline surged as we contemplated the precipitous ice wall hovering above us. Whilst the guides had conveniently left an anchor in place up top for us to clip into, the dizzying exposure remained intimidating.

My moment arrived all too quickly. Clipping in at the base, I confronted the frozen gauntlet. Muscle memory from Tajukangas returned whilst reflexively front-pointing vertical ice. Within minutes I entered a focused flow state, rhythmically swinging steel into glassy pillars. Time lost meaning. The clock ticked by unnoticed as I progressed steadily upwards.

Reachingadia ledge two-thirds up the route, lungs heaved to supply oxygen-starved cells. I paused briefly to rest rubbery arms, stealing a glance at the stunning panorama of Korouoma Canyon revealed from this height. Sweeping slopes cradled the gorge, backdropped by endless taiga rolling to distant jagged peaks slicing the skyline. What an improbably beautiful scene frozen in time!

The stretch above remained unrelenting. My guides shouted encouragement as I slogged on. Perseverance finally allowed hefting my bulk over the top lip onto the finish ledge. A huge grin split my face hearing celebratory hoots from mates down below. This quickly transitioned to concern watching climbing partners now struggle on crux pitches. The Mammoth Fall wasn’t ready to allow passage for all quite yet...

In due time, everyone topped out succesfully. We celebrated in style with "hot berry juice" dispensed from a steaming thermos bottle. Wind whipped spindrift crystals stung any exposed skin so we quickly transitioned downslope to regain feeling in our extremities next to a raging fire.

My mind drifted as I stared into the leaping flames, replaying memories of towering above Korouoma bathed in pastel light from the Arctic sunset. I realized summiting grand frozen waterfalls ranked near the pinnacle of adventure travel goals I’d set over a lifetime of roaming the planet. How fortunate to achieve it here under the expertise of talented guides surrounded by friends!

Capstone Experience: A Night With the Mermaids of the North

Returning to Pyhä-Luosto, a core contingent of us hardcore types eschewed happy hour cocktails or a plunge in the hot tub for another opportunity to wander the frosted realm as twilight again descended. Tonight held special significance for possibly sighting the aurora as solar activity remained elevated. Clear skies prevailed for once as well, making a showing even more likely.

We set off unhurriedly onto the lake, hoping to be located at a prime viewing locale once night truly fell. Our strategy paid dividends. Within an hour of the first stars winking into view, our guide Kai alerted that a faint arc of light had manifested low above the northern tree line Bounding across the lake to investigate, we were rewarded by ever brightening undulations morphing into glowing folds which soon resembled shimmering curtains enveloping half the sky.

We whooped excitedly, high-fiving each other at our good fortune to experience such a radiant display. Cameras clicked nonstop trying to burn these images permanently into memory cards. Then someone switched their photo lamp off, allowing eyes to fully adjust. Our breath caught in stunned disbelief at just how vibrant the Aurora Borealis had suddenly become revealed in full glory.

Without light pollution, details presented themselves far exceeding expectations. The sheer intensity and rapid movement left us mesmerized for over an hour, oohing and aahing as waves of emerald light danced overhead. Watching thus alone on the frozen lake invoking Finnish myths recounting these illuminations as shimmering mermaids or thundering armies, it was easy envisioning magical forces at play animating the heavens.

By midnight, most had reluctantly retreated back towards the warmth of hotel rooms and the promise of saunas. A few diehards lingered longer to soak up the hypnotic display. Eventually even the stalwarts admitted their limits, wandering slowly off the lake still casting backwards glances at the shining firmament as mythic visions from Lapland’s ancient legends continued playing overhead ever brighter under moonless skies.

A Timeless Realm Waiting to be Discovered

Our days in Lapland passed quickly, filled with memorable excursions capped by magical nights witnessing the aurora’s dance. New friendships were forged while conquering epic ice routes. Before leaving, many shared their thoughts on reasons visiting Pyhä-Luosto National Park proved so exceptional.

Beyond world-class winter activities, people emphasized connections made with fellow adventurers and local guides like Tiina and Kai. Personable experts enrich any travel experience through insights into regional traditions, cuisine, history and nature. Visitors should consider Pyhä-Luosto National Park adventure packages specifically because the guides get you quickly out into raw wilderness settings year-round unmatched elsewhere in Europe. Whether fatbiking, husky sledding across the tundra, or climbing frozen waterfalls under the northern lights, few places rival what Finnish Lapland offers.

For those seeking the best odds at catching the aurora’s performance, professionals shine by utilizing both scientific expertise and historical data to maximize sightings. While some elements involve luck, using applications tracking solar activity, cloud cover forecasts, and moon phases better the chances versus just randomly venturing out night after night. Park visitors benefit from this insider perspective.

Finally, we all concurred that the spellbinding magic permeating ancient Lapland sagas and local culture enhanced our experience tremendously. Finland embraces its mythological roots through festivals, theater and reenactments. Visitors tapping into this rich lore come away viewing the aurora and Arctic wilderness with new eyes - as lands filled with magic and mystery still not fully revealed except to respectful wanderers who pass slowly through. Simply chasing thrills fails to uncover deeper connections within this timeless realm the Sami tribes know as home.

As travelers, our time here lingers as a touchstone memory filled with wonder and delight. We stand grateful to local cultures for stewarding these lands which allowed our unforgettable expedition into the frozen North. The midnight sun still beckons though - hoping we might return when endless summer days illuminate Lapland’s valleys and fells.