Conquering Kyrgyzstan's Majestic Tian Shan Mountain Range

Conquering Kyrgyzstan's Majestic Tian Shan Mountain Range

Glistening alpine lakes, sweeping valleys, and snow-capped peaks await intrepid trekkers in the heart of Central Asia. Join adventurer Phil London as he journeys through the storied Tian Shan mountain range on an unforgettable hike across Kyrgyzstan.

Arriving in Lively Bishkek, the Adventure Begins

After arriving in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan's vibrant capital, our group made preparations for the upcoming two-week trek. We gathered vital trekking gear - sturdy hiking boots, poles, first aid kits, and ample layers to contend with the variable mountain weather. Guide Stas briefed us on the route and key sights like azure Issyk Kul Lake, the lush Jety-Oguz Valley, and remote mountain settlements along the historic Silk Road trade route.

The next morning, we departed Bishkek, eagerly anticipating the natural beauty and cultural encounters ahead in the fabled Tian Shan highlands...

Konorchek Canyon: Testing Our Trekking Legs

Our first foray was a day hike through the red sandstone halls of Konorchek Canyon, situated along the scenic road to Issyk Kul Lake. This moderate trek whet our appetite for Kyrgyzstan's rugged terrain, while allowing our group to bond ahead of the more strenuous segments to come.

"The canyon’s twisted spires and slot canyons were even more breathtaking than the pictures portrayed!"

After reaching a canyon overlook, we paused to admire the concentric rings and swooping formations carved over aeons - an outdoor geology exhibit writ large. Stas fielded questions about regional history and wildlife as golden eagles wheeled overhead.

We set up camp near the canyon mouth that evening, swapping travel stories while a hearty stew bubbled on the flames - the first of many meals our skilled cook Asylbek would conjure on the trip.

Glamping on Issyk Kul Lake

From the canyon, we turned south towards Issyk Kul Lake in Eastern Kyrgyzstan. At 182 kilometers (113 miles) long, this vast waterway cradled between arid peaks is a sight to behold!

We stayed on the lakeshore for two nights, using the time to relax and also prepare for the upcoming multi-day trek. Several of us rose early to watch traditional eagle hunting displays, while others hiked nearby Bokonbayevo Gorge - my top afternoon choice given the canyon's mild difficulty and photogenic waterfalls.

In the evening, our yurt camp staff surprised us with an impromptu sauna session in a tent perched on the shoreline rocks - a wonderful chance to unwind, trade stories about past adventures, and strengthen our camaraderie before hitting the trails together. The sauna embodied the hospitality Kyrgyz people showed us everywhere we traveled.

"Kyrgyz hospitality frequently surprised our group in delightful ways!"

Into the Wild: Trekking the Jety-Oguz and Kyzyl Suu Valleys

Fully rested and resupplied, we embarked on a six-day backpacking trek from the yurt camp towards remote mountain villages in Southern Kyrgyzstan.

The first leg followed the Jety-Oguz Valley along the foothills separating Issyk Kul from peaks topping out above 7,000 meters (22,965 feet). With the valley’s red rock walls soaring beside us, we wound through grassy meadows grazed by livestock tended by Kyrgyz shepherds for centuries. On our second night, more warm hospitality awaited at another marvelous yurt camp further south.

Pastoral landscape in Kyrgyzstan's Jety-Oguz Valley

Pastoral landscape in Kyrgyzstan's Jety-Oguz Valley. Photo Credit: Philip London

Pressing onward, our route led into the Kyzyl Suu Valley surrounded by evergreen-cloaked slopes.

We continued tracing remnants of the ancient east-west Silk Road trade networks spanning Asia. Imagining caravans laden with fine fabrics and spices passing through these mountains evoked the region’s storied past as a global crossroads.

To ease our daily mileage, horses accompanied us carrying foodstuffs, camping gear, and supplies. Each evening, our local outfitter selected superb riverside locations for wild camping beneath the stars - my preferred lodging ambience!

Epic Mountain Lakes and Peaks

A major highlight was reaching our camp along a shimmering turquoise mountain lake ringed by forests and rocky crags. After settling in, we took turns crossing a narrow section of the lake on horseback with the enormous snow-capped Jengish Chokusu massif reflected perfectly in the glassy water.

Several of us took brief but breathtaking swims in the frigid glacial meltwaters before warming ourselves around the evening campfire.

"Riding across crystalline waters with the Tian Shan giants rising behind ranks among my most magical travel memories!"

Onward and Upward Towards Jukku Pass

Truly earning our trekking chops meant shouldering full packs while gaining almost 1,200 meters (4,000 vertical feet) from the valley floor up towards the windswept Jukku Pass - the route’s highpoint at 3,800 meters (12,500 feet). We took steady plodding steps up the slope, utilizing frequent photo stops as opportunities to rest cramping legs and also capture the unfolding panorama.

Eventually the milestones came - stone shelters at 3,500 meters, then vestiges of snow at 3,700 meters heralding our proximity to Jukku. Step by step, we forged onwards and upwards through the thinning air.! Panorama from Jukku Pass overlooking mountains and lakes below

Reunited with our support team on the pass, we gratefully shed packs and extra layers, basking in warm sunlight as our guides passed out steaming mugs of sugary coffee.

The pass offered a true birds-eye panorama - jagged ridges stretched north back towards Issyk Kul, while the glacier-draped Teskey Ala-Too Range lined the southern horizon. After celebratory high fives and group pictures, we trekked an hour further to another stellar campsite overlooking an expansive plateau dotted with alpine lakes.

I'll never forget watching the glowing sunset alpenglow slowly fade from nearby mountainsides from inside my tent vestibule! This marked the zenith of our trans-Tian Shan crossing before descending back towards civilization for the trek's final days.

Return to Town and A Lasting Eagle Encounter

Following another cold high-elevation sleep, we packed up and began the long knee-jarring descent towards the inhabited Kyzyl Suu valley floor. Footsore but deeply satisfied, we savored hot meals and showers while swapping stories and pictures from our backcountry days.

As a farewell, our local guides arranged to meet an esteemed Berkutchi eagle hunter named Akyl for a private demonstration of Kyrgyzstan's ancient hunting art that utilizes majestic golden eagles. Master Akyl displayed astonishing control as his seasoned bird of prey wheeled, dove, and returned flawlessly in response to offered treats.

"Witnessing generations-old berkutchi practices was the ideal cultural finale for our memorable Tian Shan trek!"

We thanked Akyl and the entire support team profusely over a celebratory lamb dinner in town. Bellies full and camera memory cards brimming with incredible photos, we boarded our shuttle back towards Bishkek already reminiscing about favorite highlights and musing what mountainous adventure might come next!