An Unforgettable Three Day Hike to Summit Mt Rinjani, Lombok's Imposing Volcano |
Sarah Boyd endures both immense challenge and reward, climbing to the peak of Mount Rinjani - an active volcano in Indonesia that towers above the island of Lombok.
Preparing for the Adventure of a Lifetime
My friend and I had spent a fabulous two weeks relaxing on the beaches of Bali. Now it was time for us to embark on a real adventure in Lombok: tackling the hike to the summit of Mount Rinjani, Lombok's 3,726 meter active volcano.
We took a speedboat from Bali across the Lombok Strait. The journey took a couple of hours. We arrived in Lombok late in the evening, but our guide kindly waited to meet us. He drove us three hours to the small village of Senaru on the northern slopes of Rinjani. This tiny settlement would be our gateway to the towering volcano we aimed to climb over three days.
At our basic but comfortable Senaru lodge we eagerly unfolded maps of the hike, tracing the route we would take over steep slopes to reach Rinjani's peak. The contour lines on the map failed to truly reflect the intense incline ahead! But we already knew this would be a serious physical challenge, having seen Rinjani's sharp summits looming over Lombok from afar.
That night I slept heavily, dreaming of the adventure ahead.
Registration and the Ascent Begins
In the morning we drove to Sembalun village to officially register our Rinjani trek at the national park headquarters. The rangers explained safety procedures, checked our hiking gear and briefed us on strict rules to protect Rinjani's pristine environment.
With paperwork complete and daypacks bulging with supplies, we finally began hiking under a perfect blue sky. At first the steady upward gradient felt manageable. But Rinjani is no casual day hike. We would be climbing to Base Camp, already a lung-busting 2,600 meters above sea level. From there we planned a predawn push for the summit, hoping to witness sunrise from Lombok's lofty crown.
The early stages of the trek were pure magic. We hiked beneath swaying palms and through tropical forests festooned with orchids. Emerald rice paddies etched the lower slopes. Above we entered realms of billowing grasslands and fern glades. Our pace was relaxed and the banter lighthearted.
My friend was even joking about the three porters accompanying us. These tough Indonesian men each lugged 20kg packs stuffed with our camping gear. Yet they motored effortlessly up the trail wearing just flip flops!
We celebrated reaching our first camp with an amazing meal as the sun sank below Lombok's jagged coastline far below.
Base Camp and an Alpine Start
I managed little sleep at Base Camp, nerves and altitude-sickness both taking a toll. Wind buffeted the tent through the night. But morning arrived crisp and clear, perfect for an alpine-style attempt on Rinjani's summit. We gulped hot drinks at 2am and headed out by the glow of our headtorches.
The midnight slog up Rinjani's ashen cone was an epic challenge. Volcanic scree shifted treacherously with each step. Blinding headaches came and went. Yet the slopes gradually turned pink as day broke, re-energizing our bid for the top.
And what views awaited as we attained the crater rim just in time to see fiery dawn fingers probe inland from Lombok's east coast! Minutes later the sun erupted over Bali in a blaze of gold. The shadow of mighty Rinjani now stretched far across Lombok below. It was a sacred instant - success hard-won and instantly etched on our souls.
A Scenic Descent
Returning to Base Camp, relief washed over me. But further magic lay ahead as we descended Rinjani's flanks. Our trail wound past a perfect blue lake framed by forests and bamboo groves. Here I finally washed three days of grime off in tranquil waters.
That night clouds cloaked our camp, parting occasionally to reveal Rinjani's star-flecked volcanic cone. Dawn illuminated a scene of ethereal beauty: tendrils of vapour swathing emerald rainforest and villages glowing in morning light across the Bali Strait.
I'll forever cherish memories of climbing Lombok's magical volcano. Just looking at photos floods my mind with vivid recollections of mystical dawns, sweeping vistas and glowing sunsets. Reaching Rinjani's summit tested my limits but unlocked a lifetime of inspiration. This was undoubtedly the adventure of a lifetime!
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